I had to pry myself out of Telluride this morning. Such a beautiful setting and I met such great people, that pedaling away wasn’t easy. Literally – it was uphill to boot. But over the last week I’m missing Megan and Jonah more and the pull home is stronger so I pedal on.
I only have one more big pass in Colorado and it’s on tap this morning. By climbing to Telluride I’m much of the way there already, but still have to do the low-O2 part of getting over the 10,200 ft “Lizard Head” pass. Points for best-named pass so far, with “Hardscrabble” a close 2nd.
It’s Sunday morning and traffic was quiet as I made the climb under sunny skies as far as the eye could see. I saw Elk on my way out of town, and the approach to the pass was one of the most beautiful spots on this whole trip – complete Julie Andrews “Hills are Alive” moments all over as I passed cliffs, bluffs, peaks and lakes. All just as green as could be. Again I think photography is a weak substitute for being here but its all I can offer.
The only thing I won’t miss about Colorado is riding in the rain. I seem to have hit the monsoon season square on and the afternoon rains are regular and sometimes long. This is all great news for the locals – Colorado has it’s drought years and there are a lot of folks downriver in Arizona and even California that get their water from here. So its good news in general but it can be hard to get miles in without some level of afternoon misery.
Given that intro, you can guess what my afternoon looked like. Just after making the summit, I headed down into a beautiful meadow, and then followed the emerging Dolores River down the valley. A few miles from the top, the wind kicked up in a now-familiar way, the darker parts of the sky began to pull together around the big peaks and the temperature began to drop. I had my rain gear on before the first drop this time but even so, when the clouds opened up my feet and hands were every bit as wet as if I’d dunked them in a bucket. Climbing in the rain is actually easier than descending – on the way down you don’t generate much body heat because it takes no effort, and you also have a 30 mph wind wicking all the heat out of your body. By the time I reached Rico, I was cold and wet and ready for a break (i.e. grumpy to boot).
I dropped into the local bar and grill for lunch and a warm up, quickly surrounding myself with my own personal rain puddle as I peeled off layers to warm up. I was missing home and family, and with being cold and wet, I wasn’t your ideal friendly bar guy. But the mood in the place was very friendly and I met Kay and Tina who had seen me descending the pass and had lots of questions about my trip. There have been lots of ways that folks have helped me on my way and they helped by getting me out of my shell through warm conversation and genuine interest in my story.
I headed on down the hill after lunch and the sky opened up again. But as I descended it began to get warmer, and the trees turned back to more deciduous ones. Getting into town here in Dolores, you can tell by the vegetation that they get a fraction of the water that I’ve seen up the hill.