Today marks another big transition on the trip in a couple of ways. For one, I’ve completed another ACA map, so I retire a map and start in on a new one that will cover from Cedar City to Fallon NV. But more importantly it’s a turn from the the touristed areas to the backroads and quiet spots. Ever since Pueblo CO I’ve been traveling in areas that are popular, gorgeous, and pretty easy to tour in. Tomorrow I head out across the West Utah desert into Eastern Nevada and then on to “the loneliest road in America.”
I’m actually looking forward to it. One of the things I’ve enjoyed about this trip is having the time and space to let my thoughts wander, my spinning meditations if you will. And there looks to be ample opportunity for that. But also, I have liked getting to know all the little small towns every bit as much as the “big name” attractions that I’ve passed like Niagara Falls, Natural Bridges and Bryce Canyon. I love the little towns that have their own charms and I love to meet the people that call them home.
Today was my first step off the beaten path for awhile, and it was really enjoyable. I rode north out of Cedar City on a state highway that soon became pretty isolated. I only passed through one town, Minersville, on my way to Milford where I’m staying the night.
At one point during today’s only climb I was besieged by black flies again. I hadn’t seen them since Eastern Colorado and I was OK with that. They look just like houseflies except once they’ve sat on you for a few seconds they bite. I was especially getting bit on my back where there’s less breeze from my movement. For awhile I looked like one continuous tic, constantly clearing my back and arms from them. Until finally I realized that I have carried insect repellent for over 3000 miles exactly for this purpose. Flies are, in fact, insects. Problem solved in minutes.
I’d barely gotten into Milford and I was pulling under a shade tree to figure out where the campground was when I heard, literally, a voice from above. “Hello sir? Are you looking for a warm shower?” Well, yes, now that you mention it. I’d forgotten to even try the warmshowers website but my host, Renee, had found me. I looked up and she was in the balcony above me, sitting on the porch of this big old house. I introduced myself, she invited me in, and now I have a great place to stay tonight. The generosity of of people across the country continues to impress me and as a cycling tourist I’ve enjoyed a lot of help, warm introductions and warm showers.