Day 67 – Ely to Eureka NV

I knew that I had 4 summits to do today so I was up and out early to “beat the heat.” If I only knew that I would end up cold by 2:30 I might have slept in a bit more. But best to catch the morning light anyway and, hot or cold, I knew I had another 78 mile jump across no-mans land to Eureka so up and at ’em early.

I met the owner of this beauty who told me its only got 56,000 miles on it and once belonged to the Nevada Atty General.
Just out of Ely is a huge copper mine that was inactive since the 70s but started back up a few years ago.

I had an early morning panic about 5 miles outside of Ely. I had pumped my tires at the hotel parking lot before I left and I couldn’t remember packing my pump. I was pretty sure I wouldn’t leave it behind but once that idea got in my head I couldn’t turn loose of it. What if I left my pump and had a flat 35 miles from anywhere? That would set me back 2 days at least. So finally, just to put my mind at ease I had to pull over and check for it. It was right where it’s supposed to be, of course.

Looks like little picket fences but really they’re snow fences.
The big one is done

After the first pass I saw a van pulled over with a bike so I stopped to check it out. It was Graham, Daryl, and Simon from the UK. Graham is riding coast to coast in only 31 days, averaging over 100 miles a day and Daryl and Simon are driving the van, giving him support, and accompanying him on the journey. They are raising money for ovarian cancer and have the twitter handle @Bay2Hudson.

Daryl, Graham, and Simon. That’s some good friends who will SAG you all the way across the US.

They told me I’d be crossing paths with Buddy next, and sure enough on my way up the next pass I did. I think it suprised him a bit when I said “you must be Buddy” – the Western Express grapevine working well today.

Buddy was traveling with his Sis and her Fiance’ but she developed wrist issues and had to take a break.
I was checking out this old house when Buddy pulled up.

Buddy’s from Tulsa and is a forensic scientist who examines vehicle crashes and can tell you what happened. He’s hired by insurance companies and as an expert witness. He’s also got a sonar rig on his bike where he’s collecting data on how close cars pass by his bike. He records the type of car by voice when they pass and then he can sync that with his sonar measurements. I’d love to see his results when he’s done. Speaking with Eliot today (we rode together awhile – more on that) we both agreed that big trucks tend to pull way over to the other lane to give you lots of space, whereas passenger cars don’t seem to find it necessary and end up coming much closer. Not like they’d kill you any less than a truck at 70 mph, death being kind of a digital, on or off kinda thing. Buddy is blogging on: www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/Heart_Attack.

Pass number two. Not that bad really.
The wildflower selection here has thinned a lot. They seem to only grow my the roadside but I’m not sure why.
Sort of a low summit but I’ll count it.
This shrine was on a completely straight piece of road.

My lunch time shade tree – juniper with huge berries in big bunches

Eliot caught up with me as I was having my noon snack on the road. I found a lovely juniper shade tree to relax under, have some coffee, an apple and a Kind bar. Then I hear this “Hi Jim” which surprises me because I thought no one was around and nobody calls me by name much lately. We decided to ride together into Eureka, over the last pass.

We were having a great conversation, comparing notes on our tours, life, etc and hadn’t ridden for more than 20 minutes when the thunder started to rumble and boom. Pretty soon the big drops started to fall, really far apart, but cold. That was the first thing I noticed – “these drops are really cold!”. So Eliot says “I hope it doesn’t turn to hail, which in about 2 minutes it did exactly that. First the rain started coming in sheets, wave after wave which we were really quite enjoying. I was on my 4th pass at that point and pretty toasty warm so the cool rain felt good. Then it started to hail these little pea-size hail stones which, when dropped from thousands of feet kinda hurt. So we ducked under the first decent tree we found to sit it out. Before long we were soaked, wearing jackets, and getting cold – certainly not the fear I had when I decided to cross Nevada in August.

That’s not snow, that’s hail.
Up the road the hail was so thick you could scoop it up like dippin dots. Half a mile up the road it never even rained.

The hail stopped after 20 minutes or so and we decided to get back on the bikes as the visibility was improving. As soon as our butts hit the seats, the rain stopped, and we were in the sun and clear all the way to the summit. We even had to ditch the jackets in about 10 minutes because it got hot again wearing them. Another day that started cool, got hot, then cold, then hot again.

The last pass today – already wam again. I got a good start on a beard just like Eliot’s. 

We had a fun run down the hill to Eureka which is a cool little town. Another mining town (this time silver) that was 10,000 people in its heyday but is now about 600. But its the county seat and seems to be holding steady there, and has a nice vibe to it. I had some time this afternoon to check out the Eureka Museum which is in the old newspaper building where they still have their old Linotype and press. I could spend hours reading the old newspapers packed in there.

The back room of the newspaper building.
The museum had lots of photos of old Eureka. These girls are recieving their diplomas from Eureka High School.
They had lots of memorabilia from odd old civic clubs.
Lots of old calendars too from local businesses back to the 20’s.
I love this mural. It took a minute to “get it” in person but its obvious in a straight on photo.

Day 66 – Baker to Ely NV

I got off to a bit of a rough start today but it turned out to be a great day. And most great days lately are great because I met interesting, great people. That’s one of the big benefits of moving around with an overloaded bike is that, as my friend Geoff says, the bike is a great conversation starter.

I was up at 5:00 but with the time change that turned out to not be as early as it was yesterday. Sort of forgot that the sun does its thing regardless of what my iPhone says the time is. I won’t go into details on exactly how my morning started but I’ll just say that I wish there was a way to unsee what I saw in the men’s room of the campground this morning.  Eeew. Eeew. Eeeew. Hazards of traveling on the cheap I suppose. Nuff said about that.

Just outside Baker I passed this former restaurant and stopped to investigate the graffiti. They drew me in with the “Stop Extinction” tag. I agree with the sentiment but not sure it helps to spray paint it on a wall.
I did enjoy this critter and was poking around a bit when a couple of loose dogs ran me off. At least they gave me a courtesy warning bark before they started their pursuit for real.

 

Moving out into Nevada, my morning wildlife viewing has kind of thinned out. I see signs warning of deer and elk but don’t see any. I did really enjoy seeing a lot of jackrabbits (aka hares). They are much bigger than the cottontails I saw in Escalate in such great numbers. Where rabbits scamper low to the ground and dive for cover, jackrabbits bound over sage and bushes with great athletic leaps. They are a delight to watch but they make the same mistake bunnies make – often I don’t see them until they flee from me. If they just stayed put, I’d probably blow right by them.

I’ve only seen arches of horns larger than this one in one place – downtown Jackson Hole Wy.
I love the shapes of the horns

It was surprisingly overcast this morning, and the sun never really came out for any length of time until 1:00 or so. This and the higher altitude of the passes I crossed kept the temps pleasantly low, under 90 all day. Since it’s not humid, that’s pretty comfortable for riding and I hope my luck holds up. I won’t dip below 6000 ft for the next few days, until I hit Fallon so I’m hopeful. Fallon will be another story – it’s got a rep for high temps. We’ll cross that bridge when we get there (and maybe early in the morning).

After making it over the first pass today I had a five mile coasting descent into the Spring Valley. The valley was home to Osceola NV, a mining boom town that grew up after gold was discovered there in 1872. The mine was the source of the biggest gold nugget ever discovered in Nevada (24 lbs!) but played out over many years. By 1940 it was completely deserted.

My dad told me once that there is an “Osceola” in all of the 48 lower states in the U.S. I sort of doubt it but there are a lot of them. I suspect that there’s some group of native Americans that were screwed out of multiple homes behind that.

As I descended into the valley I saw a car stopped with a flat tire so I pulled over to see what was up. Turns out it was three young folks with a flat, no spare, no jack and no plan. They were considering walking to Ely (45 miles away at that point). I told them there was no way they were going to walk there and tried to impress upon them that they were in a potentially dangerous situation. You don’t just head off walking across the desert for 45 miles. The driver’s mom had cancelled their AAA so I told them I’d call a tow for them but they said they couldn’t afford that. I was kind of out of options and suggested calling the NV Hwy Patrol, which we did. They were happy to have help on the way and I decided to continue, still having 45 miles to pedal myself before the heat came up. 30 minutes later I saw the patrol car on the way to check them out, then 30 minutes after that it passed me back again, presumably with our travelers in the back.

Then a little while after I had left them, I passed these two, walking along the road. Were they in the same car and decided to walk?

Wait, are those folks walking out here? Are they nuts?

Turns out they were out here intentionally walking across the desert, and the whole US actually.

Danny and Abby are walking across America to raise money for a homeless shelter.

Well we had a nice chat, seeing that we had similar plans. They are super organized about their provisions and get picked up and shuttled back to their ending point when they need to. So they aren’t stuck out in the desert. They said usually they push a cart with camping gear, water, food etc but they have friends in the area that will pick them up so they don’t have to push the cart here. They are each on their 4th pair of shoes since beginning their journey.

We made plans to meet up for dinner or a beer in Ely and I’m looking forward to hearing about their adventure. If you want to know more, they have a blog at walkacrossamerica2017.com or www.facebook.com/walkacrossamerica2017.

I’m still getting over my mom’s fear of snakes but this little guy is beautiful.
I passed a lot of hillside cuts where you could see layers of, I think, slate. At least that lines up with what I heard last night – that one of the only operating mines around here is a slate mine.

 

The second pass had at least 5 miles of climbing at 6% grade. I’m pooped and ready for some downhill. Tomorrow I have 3 passes again. Yikes.

The scenery here is greener than I expected. The trees here don’t grow large, the biggest are maybe 25 feet. They must grow slowly and live on little water. There are pines, juniper, cedar and lots of varieties of sage (some smell lovely).

The forests near the summit are quite beautiful and stretch for miles. There’s not much ground cover and these trees must be very patient about their water intake.
I had a little picnic at the summit to rest, refuel and cool down.
So many pine cones.

After the summit I made quick work of the last 20 miles – it being mostly downhill or flat. I cruised around town checking out the lodging options when I spotted Eliot at this convenience store. When I see someone on a bike like this, I pull over.

My new buddy, Elliot, is riding across the US from Boston to SF with a couple of friends.

Eliot and his friends are riding separately today. They wanted to try night riding to escape the heat and that didn’t really work for him. (Personally I agree, crazy early 4:00 AM riding yes, 11:00 PM no thanks.) We compared route notes and we’ll be on the same path for the next several hundred miles so I bet we see him/them again. They are also fundraising (who isn’t out here?) for world bicycle relief – a charity that makes sturdy bikes for distribution in developing countries. 70% of their bikes go to girls to help them get to school. You can check them out at bike frog USA.

I’ll sign off with a brief thanks to all of you who read and comment, either on the website or emails. You folks keep me going when it gets tough. I’ve been getting a bunch of “thumbs up” from drivers too, with one car giving me applause as I cruised by. I don’t always get to answer all the comments but know that I really appreciate all your encouraging words.

Day 65 – Milford UT to Baker NV

Well I remember asking yesterday for little out of the way places and I got it. Today’s ride went smoothly and I made it to Baker NV relatively early. I left at 6:30 to beat the heat and I’m glad I did. I got in around 1:30 so most of my miles were in comfort and the last 15 or so were mainly downhill so no sweat. Well, don’t take that literally.

After posting yesterday’s entry I met another solo cyclist headed eastbound. Andrew is doing a big loop through Utah, Colorado up to Montana, Oregon, and back down to SF where he started.

Andrew is from York, UK and has a lot of touring experience. He’s got a great setup – very lightweight and aero. I’m definitely moving that way next time. Oops, did I type that out loud? Megan probably doesn’t read captions, right?

We had dinner together, and compared notes on our routes, then ending up talking until late on Renee’s porch. Since Andrew just biked by route, and I his, we had a lot to talk about. And he’s got about the coolest bike and bags setup I’ve seen. Oh and guess how old Andrew is? How about 62? See what cycling does for your fitness?

As I said I hit the road early. Luxury of luxuries, Milford is blessed with a 24 hr diner (Renee said it had something to do with their contract with the railroad, which is a big employer in Milford) so I got to hit the road with a nice breakfast by 6:30.

Leaving Penny’s diner as the sun starts to light the road.
It wasn’t long before it was up for real.
I brought extra water for today’s trip because it was 84 miles with no services. That’s some serious no-man’s land.
I was at the top of the 1st summit by 8:00 or so. Look how perky I am, veins still full of diner coffee.
My first long descent in this area. It’s intimidating to see the road turn into a dot like that. Worth a zoom in for the full effect.

Crossing these valleys feels very strange at first. This is the first time I’ve encountered this but I was warned by folks who’ve taken this route. After climbing a pass you can descend for 10-15 miles or so, then you hit the bottom of the valley and then you climb, largely in a straight line, for another 10-15 miles, then you hit another summit and it starts over again. The weird thing is that the distances are so vast, it’s kind of hard to see that you’re making any progress at all. Here’s the same descent, a mile farther down the hill.

Not the same picture, but looks like we haven’t moved, eh?

You have to kind of take it on faith that you are getting somewhere, and get on with it. I can’t imagine doing this on foot, or in a wagon though. My bike is relatively fast and I could cover 3 passes like this with the water I had on board.

Pass number 2. I think NV DOT is skimping on signage and just reused the same summit sign as the first one. No way they’re exactly the same height.
Perkiness defiantly looks forced by this point.
There were some new roadside wildflowers (aka weeds) to check out.
I stopped in this little town by the border, called Garrison. It looks about 90% of the way to ghost-town status with junk piled everywhere. But this caught my eye – much like my first car. This is a Mercury Bobcat, the Cadillac of Pintos. Mine was a Pinto but had these same “mags” which, try as they might, failed to make the Pinto cool. Can you believe that I bought a Pinto because my mom was scared of me riding a motorcycle (way cooler). Irony of ironies.
Woohoo – Nevada! Just NV and CA left! Oh boy, I’m off to the Baker Casino. What? No casino in Baker? Sheesh, there’s hardly a grocery store.
There are a lot of old log cabins around here. I suppose in this climate they last forever. This one was right behind the campground laundry.
I can’t resist an old boss Chevelle. This one’s a lot like the one my mom drove in the 70’s. She always had badass cars and this one had a 350 V8 in it. No wonder they called her “Butch”.

Day 64 – Cedar City to Milford UT

Today marks another big transition on the trip in a couple of ways. For one, I’ve completed another ACA map, so I retire a map and start in on a new one that will cover from Cedar City to Fallon NV. But more importantly it’s a turn from the the touristed areas to the backroads and quiet spots. Ever since Pueblo CO I’ve been traveling in areas that are popular, gorgeous, and pretty easy to tour in. Tomorrow I head out across the West Utah desert into Eastern Nevada and then on to “the loneliest road in America.”

U.S. 50 in Nevada a preview (not my photo)

I’m actually looking forward to it. One of the things I’ve enjoyed about this trip is having the time and space to let my thoughts wander, my spinning meditations if you will. And there looks to be ample opportunity for that. But also, I have liked getting to know all the little small towns every bit as much as the “big name” attractions that I’ve passed like Niagara Falls, Natural Bridges and Bryce Canyon. I love the little towns that have their own charms and I love to meet the people that call them home.

Today was my first step off the beaten path for awhile, and it was really enjoyable. I rode north out of Cedar City on a state highway that soon became pretty isolated. I only passed through one town, Minersville, on my way to Milford where I’m staying the night.

The road north out of Cedar City. Now we’re going places.
Not at all like Kansas.
I don’t know if these help but people gave me my whole lane all morning.
I was fascinated by this old ranch. There was little around here now, and there was probably less when it was active.
What do you do when your ranch is full of volcanic rocks. Build fences out of them.
How much work do you think is represented here. It went in both directions this way, and included a full rock-fenced corral.

At one point during today’s only climb I was besieged by black flies again. I hadn’t seen them since Eastern Colorado and I was OK with that. They look just like houseflies except once they’ve sat on you for a few seconds they bite. I was especially getting bit on my back where there’s less breeze from my movement. For awhile I looked like one continuous tic, constantly clearing my back and arms from them. Until finally I realized that I have carried insect repellent for over 3000 miles exactly for this purpose. Flies are, in fact, insects. Problem solved in minutes.

Leaving Minerville. Prescient of things to come.
I had several miles of this chip gravel to plow through. They’re repaying and left it in this middle state for the time being. After a few miles of this I was pretty sick of it. It’s hard to pedal through, the dust comes up, and cars and trucks sometimes skip rocks at you as they pass. See how it looks never ending? A trying 45 min or so, but it felt like forever.
I haven’t taken photos of shrines for awhile but I found this one especially compelling. DJ was killed only last March.
Approaching Milford, I saw these strange ornaments on a lot labeled “Milford Archeological Research Institute.” (http://www.mariarchaeology.com)

I’d barely gotten into Milford and I was pulling under a shade tree to figure out where the campground was when I heard, literally, a voice from above. “Hello sir? Are you looking for a warm shower?” Well, yes, now that you mention it. I’d forgotten to even try the warmshowers website but my host, Renee, had found me. I looked up and she was in the balcony above me, sitting on the porch of this big old house. I introduced myself, she invited me in, and now I have a great place to stay tonight. The generosity of of people across the country continues to impress me and as a cycling tourist I’ve enjoyed a lot of help, warm introductions and warm showers.

Renee’s lovely home is the oldest building in Milford, built in 1876. It operated as the William and Lacey Hotel for many years and the layout reflects it. Renee’s husband (now deceased) completely refurbished it in a year starting in 1999.
Renee in the Teddy Bear room. She’s considered opening the house as a Teddy-bear themed B&B where you get to keep a Teddy when you check out. She’s a very natural host and would make a great B&B owner no doubt.

 

Day 63 – Panguitch to Cedar City UT

Ok THAT was hard. Maybe not the most climbing that I’ve done in a day, but once again I felt the lack of O2 up around 10,000 feet. Just seems to sap all the energy out of me. Or perhaps I didn’t get enough calories and water. I felt kinda “bonked” getting in this afternoon. In any case, that’s probably the highest pass I have left on my trip. But I jump ahead.

Last night we had a rousing political discussion in the campground. I met Shannon and Stacey who are geology researchers staying in the campground working in the surronding area. It seems to be a treasure trove for geologists and archeologists (who are apparently way different socially – who knew?). Stan (local chef), Jeff (self described as “sudying alchohol” – not a typo) and mystery guy joined. Before I got there they’d already grilled a bunch of steaks, rolls, potatoes. So I helped them finish them off and stuck around for the beer and discussion course. I’d just had dinner but it wasn’t much and I’m a bottomless pit for food these days.

They had lots of questions about my ride and I told them I was raising money for climate change action. So that set off a discussion of facts vs. hoaxes,  Milankovitch cycles, blue vs. red and of course that’s a short distance from POTUS and Hillary etc. It was spirited and I owe it partly to the beer that the discussion sort of meandered all over the place. But what was really great about the whole discussion was that people were respectful, we talked about issues, differed in opinions, had our assumptions challenged and nobody walked away mad. The great thing about a live conversation is that people will never treat each other as awful in person as they will online, on Facebook, forums, etc. Even Hillary and the Donald ended their October debate with a handshake after debating face to face. So I left that discussion hopeful, and with a renewed interest in live discussions of political issues as an antidote for news outlets sniping at candidates and each other and driving us all further apart, isolating us beyond the isolation that our devices and online addictions already do.

The discussion also went into healthcare which frankly I’ve been too fortunate to have any real first-hand issues with the ACA or previous models. It was sobering to hear from more than one person around the table who either don’t have healthcare or have it but have no real access. E.g. Stan’s caught in the catch 22 of making too much money to get discounted coverage, but can’t actually afford what’s offered him. And Stacey’s daughter was covered by Medicare but was required to find a provider in her locality – which there wasn’t any. Big crack for her daughter to fall into. As I said, sobering to come face to face with these failings. The table was pretty split though as to what to do about it. Personally I’d be happy to pay Scandinavian tax rates if we got Scandinavian (or Canadian) level of care.

Stacey. I really enjoyed talking with her. She’s spirited, well informed and fascinated by her field. When she’s done this summer Stacey’s going to have a USGS map with her name on it as the primary author. Go Stacey! (Oh she does have hands btw – my bad)

I just couldn’t seem to get out of town this morning. Slow breakfast, wet tent, etc etc. I was still on the road by 8:45 but if felt like noon. I wanted to get a jump on the pass, and avoid the heat of the day. Perhaps I could let go of this obsession with being on the road early but when I’m late out, I just feel sort of behind all day. I’m a born early riser I suppose.

Fascinated by bones and staying vigilant so no one finds my skull drying by the road.
I was so hoping he would be real.

There was a big fire in the area that started June 17 and burned for a few weeks. It’s known as the “Brian Head” fire, for the small town and ski resort near the fire start. It had a huge impact on Panguitch, causing lots of cancellations and lost income for local hotels, campgrounds, restaurants. Apparently the news media made things worse by protraying it as much worse in Panguitch than it really was.

I pedaled through the edge of the burn zone today and saw first-hand some of the impact.

Approaching the burn area. You can see that firefighters must have made a stand here to save these homes. Lots of banners around here thanking them for their help.
Some trees were completely burned, others survived. Interesting to see such varied impact in different areas.

In areas near the fire zone, it was still hard to breath completely normally. I can only imagine what firefighters have to endure in terms of inhaling smoke because weeks after this fire is out, I could still feel an impact. The charred smell permeated everything and I realized how spoiled I’ve been lately on high quality, O2 rich, pine and cedar scented air.

There’s beauty in all this destruction. Nearby, new shoots were coming up out of the ashes.
Strange standing in the middle of so many, still-standing, burned trees.
Ok I paid a high price for following this sign. Seems the Western Express route and “Route 70” diverge here. I didn’t realize until it had cost me 500 feet of climbing and 45 minutes. Deep breaths; its all about the journey, right? Ok, extra bonus journey today. You can see burned trees to the right, and untouched ones to the left. I saw places where firefighters had felled trees to try and keep the fire from jumping the road but it did in places anyway.
Stacey studies stuff like this. This is all igneous rock from very old eruptions around here. She’s studying the layers of rock here to investigate a massive landslide (the biggest above ground) that happened here. This was a landslide something like 10 x 20 miles caused by a volcanic uplift. Utah btw is overdue for a big quake and is poorly equipped to handle one when it comes.
Your afternoon monsoon begins to kick up. It rained for awhile and got pretty chilly. So much for getting out early to beat the heat. I ended up with almost all my layers on and I think it dropped below 60. That’s pretty chilly if you’re wet with a 30 mph breeze from a descent.
Brook near the top of the pass. Not far from here a herd of sheep were grazing and being kept in order by a couple of border collies. Not exactly the image that comes to mind when you think Southern Utah, eh?

I’m convinced that there are a few areas of southern Utah are going to see some serious growth ounce they’re “discovered.” Sun Valley Idaho has nothing on Torrey except an overpriced airport  it’s already full of rich folks. You heard it here first. Torrey, Utah.

By the stream.
And by the roadside
My route took me through Cedar Breaks Nat’l Monument. The formations are similar to Bryce Canyon, but less extensive. I dropped down through the canyon below this on the fast descent to Cedar City. The canyon is in the upper left, and that’s Cedar City in the valley below.
I’ve grown pretty attached to this guy. Sorry babe – another bike we can’t sell.

I didn’t remember that Cedar City was so nice. It has a thriving downtown, a great coffee bar, is home to Southern Utah U., a Tony award-winning Shakespeare Festival (featuring a replica of the Globe Theatre), a contemporary arts museum and I’m sure more (I’ve just been here a few hours). I suppose it gets crazy hot here but not as bad as St. George at a lower elevation.

 

Your daily gas guzzler, Dakers.
Hey the old theatre is for sale. Your chance for a new start in Cedar City!
The Southern Utah Museum Of Art.

I spent some intensive planning time in the last couple of days and I’ve got all my stops planned out for the remaining 750 miles. I had to think it through because Nevada has some areas where there are no services for 70 or 80 miles. So I want to avoid getting stuck with a decision to do 40 miles or 110 miles some day.

My plan  puts me home on Aug. 12 sometime in the afternoon, likely coming in from Sac or Davis. If anybody wants to join me for any part of that, you’re welcome to come along for the ride – I’d love the company.

"If I had my druthers, I'd ride a bike" Jim's low CO2 trans-am cycling trip